On the Aisle Seat podcast, host Alison McGill sat down with Vancouver custom jeweler Cathy Shen of Ma Folie to talk about Taylor Swift’s engagement ring, the rise of custom engagement jewelry, and what couples really want in 2025.
Here’s a summary of the conversation, edited for clarity and flow. To listen to the full episode, Why Custom Engagement Rings Are the Most Precious of All, head to Spotify here.
How Cathy Started Designing Engagement Rings
Alison: Cathy, you’re based in Vancouver and you’ve been creating custom pieces for couples for some time now. How did this all begin?
Cathy: I started my business after my husband proposed with a pink sapphire ring. I had told him I didn’t want something everyone else had, so he designed this unique ring for me. I loved it so much that I became obsessed with engagement rings, staying up late, pinning designs, and finally deciding to leave my job to study jewelry at GIA (Gemological Institute of America). I took the Applied Jewelry Professionals program and launched Ma Folie in September 2023.
Why Couples Are Choosing Custom Designs
Alison: You’ve made engagement rings your main focus. What draws people to custom jewelry?
Cathy: Most couples come to me because they don’t see their style or values reflected at a traditional jewelry store. They want something intentional, not just a ring from a display case. Even if they like a style from my collection, they want to put their own stamp on it. Independent jewelers can do that; big box stores usually can’t.
Designing Rings Together
Alison: It seems like more couples are designing rings together now instead of one person picking it out alone.
Cathy: About 90% of my clients come in with their partners. Both people look at rings and design together. At some point, the person being proposed to usually steps back so the proposal itself is still a surprise but the ring isn’t.
Most couples want a ring they’ll love forever. Colour is deeply personal, so the person who’ll wear the ring almost always chooses the stone colour themselves.
How the Custom Process Works
Cathy: When couples come in, we start with a consultation. They try on rings from my collection to get inspired. About 70% choose a piece from the collection and customize it, changing the stone, the cut, or the setting. About 30% come in with their own design idea and we make it completely from scratch.
When You Don’t Love the Ring
Alison: What if someone doesn’t love their ring after the proposal?
Cathy: None of my clients have been in that situation, but I’ve had friends who have. I always suggest keeping the original ring because it’s part of your story. Then, for an anniversary, five or ten years down the road, you can design a new ring rather than changing the original.
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Effect
Alison: We haven’t seen ring hysteria like this since Princess Diana’s sapphire ring in 1981. What did you think when you saw Taylor Swift’s engagement ring?
Cathy: Princess Diana’s ring was the most iconic of the last century, and I think Taylor’s ring will have the same impact. People probably won’t copy her exact ring, but I do think the old mine elongated cushion cut will become very popular. It’s unique, timeless, and a mix of modern and vintage, exactly what so many couples ask me for.
Old Mine Cuts, Settings, and Symbolism
Alison: Old mine-cut diamonds have gone viral because most people had never heard of them before.
Cathy: They’re rare. I suspect Taylor’s diamond was custom cut because you can’t easily find an 8–10 carat old mine cushion cut. With custom cutting, you can even request special numbers as part of the design. Knowing Taylor loves Easter eggs, I wouldn’t be surprised if the number 13 is hidden somewhere in the dimensions.
Old mine cuts have a softer sparkle than modern diamonds. They were originally cut to shine by candlelight. When clients see them next to modern brilliant cuts, they’re always amazed at the difference.
Why the Setting Stands Out
Cathy: Taylor’s ring reportedly has half-moon accent diamonds and hand-engraved details, which make it even more unique. The slightly thicker band is a shift from years of ultra-thin bands with oversized stones. This design feels more balanced and intentional.
Small Businesses in the Spotlight
Alison: You love that Travis Kelce worked with a small jeweler for this ring.
Cathy: I do. He could have gone to a celebrity jeweler, but he chose a small business. It puts independent jewelers like me in the spotlight and shows couples they can work directly with a designer to create something meaningful.
Lab-Grown vs. Natural Diamonds
Alison: Do you think this moment will make people swing back to natural diamonds?
Cathy: No. More couples care about the style, meaning, and size of the diamond than whether it’s lab-grown or natural. Lab-grown diamonds let you get a bigger, more beautiful stone for your budget, so they’re here to stay.
Beyond Diamonds: Sapphires and Colorful Stones
Cathy: Sapphires are huge right now, especially teal sapphires. They come in every colour except red; reds are called rubies. Teal shades, from deep green to ocean blue, have been the most popular for the last five to seven years.
Celebrity Rings and Stacking Trends
Alison: Besides Taylor Swift’s and Princess Diana’s rings, which celebrity rings stand out to you?
Cathy: Dua Lipa’s east-west oval ring, Zendaya’s cushion-cut east-west ring, and Hailey Bieber’s oval solitaire all inspire requests from clients.
Stacking is also huge, but couples need to know whether their engagement ring design allows a wedding band to sit flush. Lower settings may need a curved band or a “wedding jacket,” or couples can embrace the gap between rings, which I actually think looks chic.
Tips for Couples
Alison: Top three tips for anyone wanting to design a custom engagement ring?
Cathy:
- Do your research. Find a jeweler whose style you love.
- Look for quality craftsmanship—ask about diamond certifications like GIA.
- Work with someone you trust who will guide you through the process.
Closing Thoughts
Designing a custom ring is about more than choosing a diamond—it’s about creating a piece that reflects your story, values, and style. From Taylor Swift’s engagement to the rise of lab-grown diamonds and sapphires, couples today have more ways than ever to design something personal and meaningful.
